Narita International Airport
Pick up your JR Pass and a Suica here, and post your big bag ahead if you're going to Hakone.
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Pick up your JR Pass and a Suica here, and post your big bag ahead if you're going to Hakone.
The right first stop with jet lag — big, calm, and outdoors. Closes early, last entry 16:00.
Free observation deck, 202m. On a clear evening you get Fuji.
Yakitori and beer standing up. Stay awake until nine and the jet lag halves.
Start in the forest before the city switches on. Sunday mornings you may catch a wedding.
Loud, pink, packed. Then walk south to Omotesando for the opposite of it.
Cross it once at street level, then watch from the Starbucks window. Mornings are calmer.
Touchscreen sushi on a rail. Cheap enough to over-order.
Early is the whole trick. Nakamise-dori on the way out once the stalls open.
The approach to Senso-ji, lined with snack stalls. Melonpan and ningyo-yaki.
Sukiyaki at a lunch price. Book a tatami room if there are more than two of you.
Retro games on the upper floors of Super Potato, then Mandarake for everything else.
Soba worth crossing town for. Cash, no reservations, closes early.
Barefoot, through water, into mirrors. Wear shorts you can roll up. Timed entry, book ahead.
Switchback train up the mountain. Get the Hakone Free Pass at Odawara — it covers the whole loop.
Sculpture on a hillside with a Picasso pavilion. Free foot bath at the far end.
Twelve kinds of handmade gyoza two stops from the Open-Air Museum. The mountain lunch this day was missing.
The torii standing in the lake. Queue for the photo or walk up to the shrine instead.
Rotenburo pools in the forest, tattoo-friendly. Dinner after is your ryokan's kaiseki — that is the point of tonight.
Hakone Free Pass ends here. Forward your bags, grab an ekiben, and ride the Hikari to Kyoto — two hours, Fuji side on the right.
Five blocks of pickles, tamago, skewers. Eat standing at the stall; walking and eating is rude.
One-lane alley of restaurants along the river. Look for places with an English menu posted outside.
Check in, drop the bags, then drift the covered arcades — Nishiki spits you straight into them. Decompression time, on purpose.
Before nine or don't bother. It's ten minutes long and it will be full by ten.
The garden is 700 years old and unchanged. Buy the garden-only ticket and skip the halls.
Coffee on the river with a queue. Worth it once, mostly for where you drink it.
Handmade soba with a window seat over the Togetsukyo bridge. Book nothing; just put your name in before the temple crowd thinks of it.
Twenty-minute climb to macaques and the best view of Kyoto. Don't make eye contact.
The golden pavilion. One loop, one photo, out — the path is one-way and moves fast.
Grind-your-own-sesame tonkatsu on Sanjo — the downtown dinner after Kinkaku-ji, and the line moves faster than it looks.
Go at 7:30 — grab conbini onigiri on the way, nothing else opens this early. Climb to the Yotsutsuji overlook; the summit adds an hour for less payoff.
Wooden stage over the hillside, built without nails. Early again — this one gets very full.
Stone-stepped lanes down from the temple. Preserved streets, so no eating while walking.
The oyakodon everyone queues for, tucked between Kodai-ji and Yasaka. Cash, fast-moving line, worth it.
Lanterns and food stalls where Higashiyama meets Gion.
Walk Hanamikoji at dusk. Photographing geiko on the private lanes is banned and fined.
One dish, done since forever — Kyoto's original okonomiyaki in a gloriously weird Gion room. The casual dinner after geisha-spotting.
Forty-five minutes from Kyoto. The deer bow for crackers and will absolutely mug you for them.
The Great Buddha in the largest wooden building you'll stand in. The scale doesn't photograph.
A thatched tea house in the forest between Tōdai-ji and Kasuga — udon and warabi-mochi among the deer. Lunch without leaving the park.
Three thousand stone lanterns through the forest. The walk there is the good part.
The ramen they set on fire in front of you. Pure theater, genuinely good broth — the right energy after a day of temples and deer.
Special Rapid to Osaka, half an hour. Drop bags at the hotel before you go anywhere.
The park beats the reconstructed keep. Go up only if the queue is short.
Retro Osaka under the Tsutenkaku tower — kushikatsu counters and neon. Late lunch here, then the main event at Dotonbori.
Neon, the Glico sign, takoyaki and kushikatsu. Never double-dip the sauce — that's the one rule.
Stone-paved alley one street off the chaos. Moss-covered statue, tiny bars, no neon.
Osaka's kitchen. Scallops, wagyu skewers, fruit that costs more than lunch.
Floating garden observatory between two towers. The escalator through mid-air is the ride.
Haruka express from Osaka Station, about an hour. Be there three hours before an international flight.