Shibuya Crossing
Cross it once at street level, then watch from the Starbucks window. Mornings are calmer.
Like this trip? Make it yours — change anything, add your own places.
Cross it once at street level, then watch from the Starbucks window. Mornings are calmer.
Forest shrine in the middle of the city. The walk in under the torii is the point.
Teen fashion at full volume. Fifteen minutes if you hate crowds, an hour if you don't.
Gyoza, beer, nothing else. Cheap, fast, always a short line.
Deliberate wandering time: the architecture-lined avenue down to Cat Street's vintage shops, drifting toward Shibuya for your sunset slot.
Open-air rooftop, 229m up. Book the slot 45 minutes before sunset and stay for the lights.
Conveyor sushi ordered by touchscreen, delivered on a rail. Genuinely fun, genuinely cheap.
The inner market moved; the outer one is still the best breakfast in Tokyo. Tamagoyaki, uni, knives.
Edo-era garden ringed by skyscrapers. Matcha in the teahouse on the pond.
Ginza's glossiest mall — but you're really here for the basement depachika and the 6F restaurant floor. This is lunch, disguised as shopping.
Free observation deck, 202m. On a clear evening you get Fuji.
Six-seat yakitori counters in a warren of alleys. Smoky, cramped, exactly right.
Two hundred tiny bars, each with its own rules. Check for a cover charge before you sit.
Tokyo's oldest temple. Get there before nine and you'll have the gate almost to yourself.
The approach to Senso-ji, lined with snack stalls. Melonpan and ningyo-yaki.
Sukiyaki cooked at your table in a tatami room. Lunch sets are a fraction of dinner.
Honkan building only unless you're a completist — samurai armour, swords, screens.
Walk the length of it out to the pond. Autumn colour peaks around now.
Loud post-war market street under the train tracks. Standing bars and skewers.
Barefoot, through water, into mirrors. Wear shorts you can roll up. Timed entry, book ahead.
Where the tuna auction went. Sushi Dai's queue is real; the smaller counters are just as good.
Eight floors of everything. Go up first, work down — the good stuff is never on the ground floor.
Vintage manga, figures, doujinshi. Each floor is a different obsession.
Hand-cut soba in a wooden building that survived the war. Seiro, cold, with the broth after.
Three gardens in one, and the Japanese section in November color is the payoff. 500 yen. Closed Mondays — that's why it's Tuesday.
The old castle grounds, free, with the Edo keep's stone base still standing. Closed Mondays and Fridays.
Eight famous shops in one basement corridor of Tokyo Station. Rokurinsha's tsukemen is the line worth standing in.
634 meters — Fuji on a clear day, and the whole city turning on below you at dusk. Book online and skip a very long queue.
Griddle-it-yourself okonomiyaki in a creaky wooden house, fifteen minutes' walk from Skytree. The east-side dinner this day was missing.